JoLt 2006: Northern India and Bhutan

Twenty-four youngsters travelled through Northern India and Bhutan

It was an amazing sight – thirty-two people with a variety of disabilities and disadvantages, making their way up a Himalayan mountain under the unrelenting glare of the sun and at an altitude of three thousand and seven hundred metres, all supporting one another with immense determination and courage. Even crossing a river with no bridge was no obstacle. Few would imagine that only one week earlier these twenty-four young people and eight leaders had nervously met up at Heathrow for the start of their Journey of a Lifetime.

The foreign part of the journey started in Delhi, with an already exhausted team after an entire night spent travelling. We were immediately hit by the extreme heat and humidity but perked ourselves up with the first swim of the trip and had the pleasure of teaching those, for whom this was a first, how to swim. Thus refreshed we had a tour around Delhi by coach and rickshaw. We were grateful to get to bed early that night, eagerly anticipating our early morning flight to Leh, the highest airport in the world!

Morning brought another challenge, the need to ascend almost eighty steps, with two of our number in wheelchairs, to attend a Puja ceremony in a prayer room right at the top of Thiksey Monastery. Our reward was a blessing from the Buddhist monks. A visit to a school set up by the King of Ladakh for his daughter who suffers from Rett syndrome came next. The children here have so little yet we were warmly welcomed and were soon singing together and playing games.

Next morning we set out in glorious sunshine to drive across the Nubra Valley. As we ascended the highest motor-able road in the world, the sunshine turned to snow as we reached the dizzy altitude of 5602 metres. Being hardy Jolters that we had already become we were determined to brave the weather conditions and altitude sickness for an impressive group photo before the descent to Deskit. Those who had hoped to catch up on a bit of sleep during the journey were out of luck as the amazing view and narrow, winding and bumpy roads meant not much sleep was possible. We arrived in Deskit to glorious sunshine and our first taste of trekking, alternately walking or riding on camels or ponies to our campsite. For some the prospect of getting on these animals was terrifying but in the end everyone managed to overcome their fears.

The day ended perfectly around a camp fire with the locals singing and dancing for us and before long we all joined in and danced around the fire. So exhausted were we that most of us slept through the donkeys, dog and cow “song” and woke to hot drinks and breath-taking views. Our next challenge was for the whole group to climb a sand dune. Difficult under the best of conditions but made more so by a strong wind that forced sand into our faces, mouths, ears and noses! Nevertheless we all reached the top. To celebrate our achievements we played the infamous game, Jolt Limb-ball, in which pretty much anything goes so long as you get the ball and score a goal. The return trek to pick up our vehicles was easier but exhausted after another strenuous day we all slept well on the floor of the dining hall in Lamdon School.

We were now ready for a challenging four day trek. We set off at an altitude of 3700 metres in blazing sunshine, with no shade on the barren mountains and soon faced the major challenge of crossing a small river that had lost its bridge. Brave volunteers waded into the freezing water and helped the rest of the group cross the river using the few small boulders on the river bed. We continued a long and arduous trek, mostly uphill on a narrow track, with boulders and rocks blocking our path. There was great relief when we reached the campsite in Yangtang but also the realization that we had gelled as a team and could overcome most obstacles by team work and determination. Our reward that evening was a bright sky filled with stars under which some of the girls sang us a beautiful song they had composed about JoLt.

The next day brought no relief from the sun, only another arduous trek over difficult terrain. On the third day, we took to rafts and braved the freezing water of the Indus river and its grade 2 rapids; hard work but rewarded by spectacular views of the mountains to either side of the river. The sun was searingly hot. To cool off, the brave among us plunged into the 11°C water and the even bolder jumped into the water from an old iron bridge. We were sad to end our final day of trekking across Ladakh and were touched by the farewell party thrown for us by our wonderful guide, cooks, sherpas and drivers. Not even an enforced one-and-a-half hour delay due to road works could dampen our spirits as we returned and we danced and sang at the roadside, joined by other road users.
Monsoons Trains and Festivals

In dramatic contrast to the Himalayas, we were then plunged into a whistle-stop tour of several chaotic Indian cities. In Jaipur elephants carried us up to the Amber Fort where we explored the palace before going on to the Monkey Temple and its countless pink bottomed monkeys, and a snake charmer with a cobra that some of the Jolters were even brave enough to hold! This was followed by visits to a turban museum, pottery, shoe and silk factories and of course the spectacular Taj Mahal, the splendour of which left some JoLters speechless!

Our first overnight train journey was another enormous challenge. We had to contend with the heat and humidity and the large crowds at Agra station and we had only a few minutes to find our carriage and get all of us and our 40 pieces of luggage on board. But we did it and after a 16 hour journey (four hours longer than expected) we reached Varanassi, a crowded city at the best of times, but made even busier because of a religious festival. We had to abandon our rickshaws and go by foot to the Ganges to observe the pilgrims in their evening prayers by candlelight, known as Aarti. Next morning it was back to the Ganges at sunrise to watch the bathing rituals.

After another overnight train journey we were all ready for a more relaxed few days in Sonapani at the base of the Himalayas, a village so remote, there are no roads leading there. We had to cover the last kilometre on foot, carrying our possessions. Here we learned about life in the remote Himalaya regions. We worked on a local farm, cutting grass with scythes, harvesting pears, ploughing fields with bullocks and picking corn for cattle-feed. In 4 hours we did what would have been the work of 2 days for the farmers and we were thanked by invitations into the homes of the local people to join them for lunch and valiant attempts at communication. We further helped our hosts at Sonapani by planting trees, resurfacing the floors in our huts using cow dung (the traditional method) and weaving baskets from twigs. We even found time for an impromptu game of cricket, a “customise your hat” competition and yoga lessons. Then it was back to Delhi and a visit to the Amar Jyoti School for disabled children. The children of this inspirational school welcomed us with an amazing display of acrobatics and dance, which moved some of us to tears. Later, in their classrooms the children helped us to learn some Braille and Indian sign language.

The penultimate leg of our journey was a very special five days in Bhutan. We had a final, difficult trek but despite the searingly hot sun and the rocky, steep path we all made it up the side of the mountain to the café with magnificent views of Tak Sang Monastery. The challenge not over yet, we then had to descend the steep rock-strewn path with no back up from mules, but we got to the bottom without mishap in good time for our final campsite lunch. The trekking over, we were put to work on local farms, where we stacked firewood, weeded Hemp, picked maize and made butter.

Then we tried our hand at the national sport of Bhutan – archery – and also their ancient version of darts that involves throwing enormous, heavy darts at a very small and far-off piece of wood. With our sporty spirit ignited we challenged the local Bhutanese children to football and volleyball matches, and taught them the Hokey-Cokey, much to their enjoyment (and ours).

Our journey ended back in Delhi, with a reception at the British High Commission where we entertained the Commission staff and their guests with singing and signing. On the final night, the group provided their own entertainment with songs, sketches and award ceremonies. Many tears were shed as we prepared to return home.
Flying Tigers, Ancient Sports and the Hokey-Cokey

The penultimate leg of our journey was a very special five days in Bhutan. We had a final, difficult trek but despite the searingly hot sun and the rocky, steep path we all made it up the side of the mountain to the café with magnificent views of Tak Sang Monastery. The challenge not over yet, we then had to descend the steep rock-strewn path with no back up from mules, but we got to the bottom without mishap in good time for our final campsite lunch. The trekking over, we were put to work on local farms, where we stacked firewood, weeded Hemp, picked maize and made butter.

Then we tried our hand at the national sport of Bhutan – archery – and also their ancient version of darts that involves throwing enormous, heavy darts at a very small and far-off piece of wood. With our sporty spirit ignited we challenged the local Bhutanese children to football and volleyball matches, and taught them the Hokey-Cokey, much to their enjoyment (and ours).

Our journey ended back in Delhi, with a reception at the British High Commission where we entertained the Commission staff and their guests with singing and signing. On the final night, the group provided their own entertainment with songs, sketches and award ceremonies. Many tears were shed as we prepared to return home.
2006 Expedition Diary

Supporters of JoLt 2006

We are indebted to friends old and new, to the companies, schools, charitable trusts and strangers without whom the 2006 Journey of a Lifetime would not have been possible. We are grateful also to the people who worked so hard in Britain, India and Bhutan to ensure its success. We thank you for your friendship and support, but most of all we thank you for caring.
David Hill, All Women Elephant Trek in Nepal: Denise Bolland, Dorothy Dalton, Susan Day, Lindsay Driscoll, Lady Fenn, Olivia Hussey, Challis Stokes & Jackie Wilkinson. Wycombe Abbey School, Bircham Dyson Bell Charitable Trust, Lady Braithwaite, C Brewer & Sons Ltd, Jonathan Farthing, Doreen Hamilton, Healthsure, M.B.N. and E.J. Henman, Ravi Jain, James & Diana Hambro’s Charitable Trust, John Menzies PLC, Graeme Leith, Jo Lloyd & Kaz Hatchell, Marsh Christian Trust, Luke Mayhew, John Moody, M.W. Kellogg Ltd., Mark Phillips, Colin Ross, Patti Schmiegelow, The Blyth Watson Charitable Trust, The Clover Trust, The Emily Hughes – Hallett Fund, The Hedley Foundation, The M.K. Charitable Trust, The Michael John Trust, The Tanner Trust, Sara Trevelyan, Jackie and Derek Withers, AB Automotive Electronics Ltd, Alan and Karen Grieve Charitable Trust, Alastair Youdan, AMB Investments, J Atkinson, Esther M Atkinson, Aubrey Badel, Bear Grylls, Cherry Bicknell, Margaret Bird, Bournemouth and West Hampshire Water Plc, Canvey Supply Company Ltd, Carey Jones Architects Ltd., Civil and Marine (Holdings) Ltd, Peter, Gill and Joel Crompton, Dane Housing (Congleton) Ltd, Deepdale Engineering Co Ltd, David Dixon, Helen Dudley, Nicola Ellingham, Gauchos Restaurant, Alex Gee, GLT Exports Ltd, Golden Palace, Harris & Sheldon Group Ltd, Harrow & District Caledonian Society, Harrow Vue Cinema, Henry Colbeck Ltd, Hydrex Equipment, Kingfield Heath Ltd, Mr & Mrs Andrew Knox, Cheryl Lamford, James Leek, Thomas C. Maconochie, Sophie Mauleverer, Millbrook Community School, Newton Primary School, Odeon Wimbledon, Joseph O’Toole, Jill Pegram, Pinner Methodist Church, Rajendra Pudasaini, Rachel Hardcastle, Robert Richardson, Sheil Sethi, Manny Silverman, Alison Smith, Louise Stroyan, The Carvill Group, The Castle, Harrow on the Hill, Oliver & Rosie Ticciati, Travers Metal Products Ltd, Barry White, Whitley Wood Press, Sarah Withers, PJ Wyllie, Yell Group, Marjorie and Ron Yule